Bruce Irons, Macaronis, Indonesia
“This is the most I’ve surfed in five years,” says Bruce, sitting in the lineup at the Mentawais’ most famous wave, Maccas. “I’ve got my fat ass back. Every time I don’t surf I get all scrawny. The more I surf, the more girth I get.” Bruce has spent a lot of time in the […]
“This is the most I’ve surfed in five years,” says Bruce, sitting in the lineup at the Mentawais’ most famous wave, Maccas. “I’ve got my fat ass back. Every time I don’t surf I get all scrawny. The more I surf, the more girth I get.”
Bruce has spent a lot of time in the Mentawais – on this particular occasion, he’s aboard the Indies Trader IV for Red Bull’s Minor Threat trip. The surf program here has been led by surf enthusiasts Special K Andino, Ev Geiselman and Conner Coffin, all locking eight-plus hours a day. Bruce, the eldest on board, has slowly been catching up.
This sequence is typical BI: the famous kicker drag pig-dog to roundhouse cutback.
“I should’ve hit it higher on the rebound,” says Bruce, lamenting that since all the tsunamis and seismic shifts in the area, he thinks the wave has changed. “It definitely feels different to me. The reef got shallower, it’s faster and it’s more bowly. It doesn’t give you enough time to go out into the flats and let you do a swooping roundhouse. Before it seemed like the wave was a bit slower but still perfect.”
And, what does he prefer? The new or the old? “Old,” he says. “It was just bubble gum wave, it was like a wavepool. Every single wave was breaking (now pointing with his index finger) right here.”
For more of Ryan Miller’s awesome work, check out his site, over here.
Ozzy Osbourne Wants No More Tears At Pipeline
The best (unofficial) hype reel for the Vans Pipe Masters.
Watch: Torrey Meister’s Gunslinging SEOTY Entry
"Bull-riding is such a great warmup for surfing big waves."
Guess Who Else Just Got Invited To The Vans Pipe Masters
3 more withdrawals, and 3 more exciting replacements.
‘Buying Double Cheeseburgers, Acting Like He’s Hit Some Sections Today’
RAGE 400 drops ft Noz, Chun, Creed, Vinny, Jel, Wado + others!
What’s Happening To Orange County’s Sand, And Is It Worsening The Waves At Lowers?
Read this to upgrade your understanding of your local beach break and coastal environment.
Here Are The 15 People Who Qualified For The 2023 CT
After seven events and much groveling, 10 men and 5 women will officially be CT…
An Ode To Aussie Chick Pros From The Nineties
A celebration of stoicism, resilience, grit, core lordship, and unconditional love.
Update: John John Flushes Everyone Down The Haleiwa Toilet Bowl
And the CT qualifications for 2023 are set.
Riaru Ito Is Cooler Than His Cucumber Garden
Meet our passion pick for the Vans Pipe Masters.
Unlocked: Kael Walsh, Rolo Montes, And Al Cleland Jr In ‘Saturn’
Quik’s new 20-minute surf film is so good you’ll want to burn a DVD of…
How Surfers Get Paid, Episode 4
The energy drinks are here. They’ve got millions of dollars, and they want your head.
‘Saturn’ Orbits Into Southern California
Quiksilver's newest film made landfall in Encinitas, and we were there to document the occasion.
The Vans Triple Crown Of Surfing Returns In 2023
Can anyone beat John Florence and Carissa Moore in a three-week window?
What Will Airs Look Like In 10 Years?
The final installment of our editorial exploration into the nuances of airborne surfing.
Can A South African Cavern Queen With No Pipeline Experience Do Well At The Vans Pipe Masters?
Sophie Bell will have a steep learning curve in Hawaii.