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Julian Wilson, backside helicopter, France

Life was tough in Hossegor on Sunday. At least, for those in the three remaining heats of the Quiksilver Pro, France’s first round. Little more than a shorebreak, La Grav was vicious and few men posted scores in the excellent range. It was most certainly a game of chance. Julian Wilson surfed against Kieren Perrow and Ace Buchan, who came first and second respectively ahead of the Sunshine-Coaster. Luckily for Julian, round one is no-losers, so he takes another swing of the club.

But, it ain’t all bad. “The comp’s off and the sun is out,” said photog Ryan Miller, after yesterday’s lay-day was called. “Man, you just can’t get a bad day in France. Typically when the weather sets in the waves come with it. Then when it’s small, the sun’s blazing and makes for an amazing beach day.” Weather aside, Jules spent his warm lay-day hucking rotations into a corner. “Julian was going for rotation over height here, and trying to stomp a few full-rotators,” says Ryan. Expect to see a few of these from Jules if the contest site moves to something more rampy.

Photographer profile

Ryan Miller

Ryan Miller, 33 years old, does not know how to write a bad email. Your pals at Stab have learnt to live vicariously through Miller’s red wine-fuelled letters from the road. His travels take him to some dreamy locales and, in those places, he scores all-time photos: “My favourite photo I’ve shot was of Benny Bourgeois in the Caribbean, with a fisheye. Often I just take photos, but rarely do I get to make one.” In an age of tail-highs and released fins, Ryan still most likes to shoot someone who can lay-down a big backside turn. Namely: Jordy Smith, Dane Reynolds, Gabe Kling, Kekoa Bacalso, Damien Hobgood and Peter Mendia. Like most photogs, Miller misses Scott Aichner’s work. But, as far as contemporary inspiration? “Trying to see things through my daughter’s eyes. It’s wild to think about someone experiencing something totally new on almost a daily basis when, as adults, we rarely get to experience something truly new.”

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