Return to Top
  • Full Frame

Jordy Smith, blasting at Bordeaux time, France

“You really just can’t replicate that feeling of getting off an overnight flight and driving straight to the beach,” says our photographer, Ryan Miller, back in France for the European stretch and capturing man like Jordy Smith through scattered eyes but steady lens. “Tired as shit and delirious, but somehow sinking your feet in the sand makes it all ok. First afternoon in France and while the rest of the world is eating dinner France is surfing. 7:30pm is time to still be in the water or just be opening your first bottle of Bordeaux. No one even thinks about dinner at 7:30. Jordy Smith surfs till the sun hits the horizon while the rest of the world stares at their plates.”


Photographer profile

Ryan Miller/ www.redbull.com/surfing

Ryan Miller, 33 years old, does not know how to write a bad email. Your pals at Stab have learnt to live vicariously through Miller’s red wine-fuelled letters from the road. His travels take him to some dreamy locales and, in those places, he scores all-time photos: “My favourite photo I’ve shot was of Benny Bourgeois in the Caribbean, with a fisheye. Often I just take photos, but rarely do I get to make one.” In an age of tail-highs and released fins, Ryan still most likes to shoot someone who can lay-down a big backside turn. Namely: Jordy Smith, Dane Reynolds, Gabe Kling, Kekoa Bacalso, Damien Hobgood and Peter Mendia. Like most photogs, Miller misses Scott Aichner’s work. But, as far as contemporary inspiration? “Trying to see things through my daughter’s eyes. It’s wild to think about someone experiencing something totally new on almost a daily basis when, as adults, we rarely get to experience something truly new.”

Visit Ryan Miller/ www.redbull.com/surfing's site here

enter

All FULLFRAMES