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Jordy Smith, a ramp between jetties, France

“It is still 100 feet here and howling onshore,” says photog Ryan Miller from France’s Landes coast. “We were running from the swell again today.” Hossegor, scene of the Quiksilver Pro, France (starting in a few hours’ time, probably), has offered her rough cheek to the top 34 since they started trickling into town a few days ago. But the pros wouldn’t have her any other way.

In a recent interview, Julian Wilson told Stab: “Due to conditions, you can surf five different heats on five different boards. The conditions can change every hour, depending on tide and wind. But that makes it a really fun event and it’s cool to see how everyone adapts to the waves.”

Mick Fanning concurred: “I love it just because it’s so exciting. You don’t know if you’ve got the right bank, you’re guessing where it’s gonna be good at what time, everyone’s texting each other to figure out where’s best to surf. It’s fun and exciting and if you get a sneaky surf and someone misses it, you feel good about yourself, but then if it’s the other way around you feel shit (laughs). It’s a really fun vibe.”

Jordy Smith (pictured here) is another man who likes the thrill of French conditions. Today, the South-African, along with Julian, Josh Kerr, Kolohe Andino and Yadin Nicol, sessioned a manageable corner between two jetties. “Not amazing, but at least rideable,” as Miller describes it. Manageable is all these men need, however. Manageable means hits like this one. Oh boy, can this event start sooner, please?

Photographer profile

Ryan Miller

Ryan Miller, 33 years old, does not know how to write a bad email. Your pals at Stab have learnt to live vicariously through Miller’s red wine-fuelled letters from the road. His travels take him to some dreamy locales and, in those places, he scores all-time photos: “My favourite photo I’ve shot was of Benny Bourgeois in the Caribbean, with a fisheye. Often I just take photos, but rarely do I get to make one.” In an age of tail-highs and released fins, Ryan still most likes to shoot someone who can lay-down a big backside turn. Namely: Jordy Smith, Dane Reynolds, Gabe Kling, Kekoa Bacalso, Damien Hobgood and Peter Mendia. Like most photogs, Miller misses Scott Aichner’s work. But, as far as contemporary inspiration? “Trying to see things through my daughter’s eyes. It’s wild to think about someone experiencing something totally new on almost a daily basis when, as adults, we rarely get to experience something truly new.”

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