The circus comes to Fiji
Cloudbreak has been averaging between 30 to 50 people per good quality swell since the Fijian government passed down a decree opening up the previously privatised waves off Tavarua and Namotu (as well as the rest of Fiji).
The decree, which was affected on July 9th, broke a 17-year agreement between the American and Australian owned surf resorts at Tavarua and Namotu, and the surrounding villages in which village chiefs granted the resorts exclusive access to the nearby reefs in return for a kick down of tourism profits to the local community.
IIn the days after the law was handed down, experts had told Stab to tread carefully around the news given Fiji’s convoluted political structure. One in which a council of village chiefs wielded significant influence as well as the government. The experts were wrong.
The first day Cloudbreak was open to the public coincided with one of the days of the year. And it was a circus.
One source, who spoke to Stab on the condition of anonymity, said he arrived on the first boat to the line-up at 6.20 am. Shortly after, boats from the Plantation and Castaway resorts arrived, neither of which had previously had access to the wave. Followed after that by guests from nearby Tavarua.
“Tavarua was disappointed and angry at the other surfers in the line-up due to the change in the situation,” the source said. The boat operator from Plantation resort, Jone Tukutuku confirmed he’s been running surfers out to the waves off Tavarua and Namotu since the decree was affected.
“Yes we have been taking out the Surfer's to Cloudbreak, Restaurants, Swimming Pools and Namotu Lefts and the guests are really happy for that,” he said.
The last time Tavarua and its surrounding waves were opened to the public was in 1992. Back then the decision had been marred by infighting between Fijians over who should receive the rent for using the reefs. Under traditional Fijian law (known as Qoliqoli), villages were able to claim ownership of reefs and demand a fee from anyone wanting to use them. Opportunists were trying to demand cash from visitors on top of what was already being paid to chiefs.
The new decree effectively ends 125 years of that Fijian law and it remains to be seen whether the villages will still receive a kick down in funds from the resorts at Tavarua and Namotu. Neither of the resorts would confirm or deny whether they would forfeit the passing on of profits though rumours from recently returned surfers from Fiji suggest they have already. One thing is for sure; the villagers and chiefs are pissed.
“The villages are angry about the decree but they can't do much as the government has warned that any body who interferes with the surfers will be dealt with severely,” said Plantation boat operator, Jone.
If the funding has been withdrawn from the villages, experts say the responsible course of tourism to take is to ensure charter operators and surfers are forced to pay a fee to local villagers to use the reefs. The Fijian government is yet to say whether they will enforce this. While Jone says as of right now, he “doesn’t have to pay nothing to nobody.”
On day one of Cloudbreak being opened, a number of privately owned yachts were parked around the wave. One hui could even be seen skimming across the water in a rubber ducky smaller than the length of his board to get to the wave. None of whom paid anything to surf the wave. Fiji can expect a further boom in surf charter and tourism operators looking to benefit off the region, possibly without any financial dues being paid to local villagers.
World Surfaris are the first charter company to offer a yacht charter service in Fiji - one which visits Cloudbreak, Restaurants and Frigates. A source told Stab they are but one of many big time surf tourism companies that have been in negotiations with local resort owners to set up surf camps and charter operations in the region.
How Fiji stands to benefit from the increase in surf-tourism in the region is yet to be seen. If the Mentawais situation is any indicator, and it is say experts, an increase in charter operations in a region does not neccessitate a boost to the national economy.
As for how the country's best waves will deal with the influx of surfers: “We will see it turning into a mini G-Land, even though in my opinion (Cloudbreak) is so much better of a wave…And I wouldn’t go back to G-land it’s that unpleasant,” one recent visitor to Cloudbreak told us. Adding, “it was fucking packed on the day we surfed it.”
According to a commenter on the Stab forum, the vibe among surfers jostling for waves at Cloudbreak was amicable. Some, however, have been a little slow to adjust.
“Five minutes before a set, one of the Tavi guests came and sat on my inside. A set came and I burned him. That was always gonna happen but then his mate blew up at me.” – Jed Smith
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Reply #24 on : Thu August 05, 2010, 13:54:33