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Ellis’ romantic ideal
Posted 16 Apr 2012, by STABmagEllis Ericson holds the period of surfing from the early 70s as a golden one. Forty years after the release of films like Morning of the Earth, he shapes replica boards and studies that style of shredding implicitly. Here, in a short documentary piece with Surfer, he uses a few keywords that will incite fury amongst web commentators (insert “space” and “create”) but more than that, he shows a recent mastery of these boards at pretty serious-sized Desert Point. All the while with a slick style and without a leash. Impressive.
I dig the use of these throwback boards in fun shoulder high mushy point breaks but at waves like deserts? C’mon you can’t tell me he wouldn’t have gotten barrelled down the entire reef on a 6’2 CI, JS etc.
Ellis rips no doubt and he’s making a living off surfing by doing this sorta stuff, which beats the shit out of pouring concrete or hammering at a keyboard all day long. Still, in waves of consequence, board evolution happened for a reason. Cause at the end of the day I’d rather be riding the barrel instead of soul arching in front of it.
Haha, how appropriate that Charles Darwin commented on board evolution, because I think that Darwin was a scientist that found out about evolution.
vibes
I dig the use of these throwback boards in fun shoulder high mushy point breaks but at waves like deserts? C’mon you can’t tell me he wouldn’t have gotten barrelled down the entire reef on a 6’2 CI, JS etc.
Ellis rips no doubt and he’s making a living off surfing by doing this sorta stuff, which beats the shit out of pouring concrete or hammering at a keyboard all day long. Still, in waves of consequence, board evolution happened for a reason. Cause at the end of the day I’d rather be riding the barrel instead of soul arching in front of it.
Haha, how appropriate that Charles Darwin commented on board evolution, because I think that Darwin was a scientist that found out about evolution.
vibes
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